Riccardo Tisci

Oh, John Galliano. You Are The Reason For The Season.

Submitted by Laura Thomas on Fri, 07/10/2009 - 12:43

I honestly find Armani of any variety underwhelming. But if someone has Cate Blanchett’s attention, well then they have mine. I have no idea if he pays her to wear his gowns or attend his couture shows (I like to think she has more integrity than that), but she’s there so I suppose we all watch. Mr. Armani sent down his signature pantsuits…snoozers. But I did love a big puffy snow beast-like fur coat over a black beaded pencil skirt with a naughty little zipper up the front. Makes me want to drink bathtub gin and wear red lipstick. Rarrr.

Oh, John Galliano. You are the reason for the season. And even though you didn’t wow us with a light installation spectacular, your clothes and the way you arrange them still have me feeling faint. Galliano brought back Monsieur Dior’s wasp-waisted silhouette that defined the New Look back in the late 40s but dirtied it up like only he could by pairing lady-like jackets and skirts with snippets of lingerie, garter belts and other saucy little underpinnings. I mean, a ball gown with a bra. How divinely madcap is that?!

Everyone knows Givenchy, but poor Riccardo Tisci hasn’t become the name behind the brand in the way that say, Nicolas Ghesquière or even Olivier Theyskens has. I suppose it’s because he’s so steady and reliable in his work. That said there’s obviously an element of drama if Michael Jackson wore pieces from his women’s collections…But when it comes to the autumn/winter 2009 couture collection, it was good. It was fine. Nothing groundbreaking.

Sometimes I feel dislodged in time when I see a Jean Paul Gaultier show. “Have I seen this before?” It’s always inspired by legends of the silver screen. It always has a brash Hollywood Sunset Strip-ness about it. And there’s always a haute-trash kind of thing going on—which I think is why Madonna loves it all so much. All that said, the man can make clothes. It’s just all a bit overt for my taste. Although, I am feeling the homage to “Bladerunner.” Wish a $50,000 Halloween costume was in my budget.